Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers - The Basics: A Review

In my recent post on Tim Killen’s SketchUp ebook (see the post here), I mentioned my desire for video instruction. About the same time, Fine Woodworking launched a new video by Dave Richards titled Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers – the Basics. Right away, I knew I would have to get a copy of Dave’s new video for a review.

Never mind me having to buy it; the nice folks at Fine Woodworking.com provided a free copy. Since I love free stuff and especially free stuff about SketchUp, I immediately started watching it and jotting down some notes.

I first ran across Dave Richards, along with Tim Killen at their excellent blog at Fine Woodworking.com called "Design. Click. Build." They often give instruction on various SketchUp stumbling blocks readers inquire about and I have learned many things there.

Specifically, Dave is an authorized SketchUp instructor, so you can expect some classroom style teaching in his video.

Making my way through the instruction
Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers – the Basics is really a series of six videos or episodes which progressively takes the viewer through the process of building a SketchUp model and then creating the shop drawings required for actual construction. If you were to sit down and watch all the episodes from start to finish, it would take you about an hour.

The subject material for this video is a simple wall mounted cabinet. The question I had for myself was: "As an intermediate level user of SketchUp, should I even consider spending time with this video? Are my skills more advanced than what this video teaches?" Upon launching the software which guides the video, I read this:

"Whatever your skill level, this concise introduction to SketchUp gets you up to speed fast. Learn how to set up the program, use drawing tools, navigate in a 3-D space, sketch, refine drawings, and create shop-ready plans. Already know a little? This easy-to-skim video lets you focus on what’s new to you. Includes: sample project, tips, shortcuts, cheat sheet, and digital plan."

So, how does the video measure up?

First, a note about the video itself: the video quality is first rate. Forgetting that I was looking at Dave’s video, I found myself trying to click some of the SketchUp tools and buttons on the screen. The audio quality leaves a little to be desired. The volume is not consistent, meaning there are moments which are louder than others, but it is never a problem.

The contents page: note the episodes on the right side of the image.

The video is broken up into different episodes which make finding a particular topic easier. For example, I was drawn to the episode titled "Print Your Own Plans."

The first episode gives a brief, but more than adequate introduction to what are really the basics: how to get oriented in a 3D environment which includes moving around the screen using the basic tools along with important tips detailing how these tools are integrated with the mouse. It is interesting to see which tool sets Dave recommends and I learned a little tip about adjusting the background color. I have always entered the RGB color code for white. Dave just uses the sliders to accomplish this.

The approach with this video is interesting, because the first goal is to utilize SketchUp as a design tool. The initial model; a small cabinet, is created as simply something to look at; just like you would do when showing a design to a client. No joinery is part of this model (that comes later), and really, it is a good exercise for the beginner. A number of different tools are used while designing the cabinet and Dave provides a number of short cuts.

The fourth episode titled "Add Components and Joinery" is where the serious modeling begins. While the wall cabinet appears to be a modest project, it contains several different types of joinery which makes for a good teaching project.

I have seen dovetail competitions where one woodworker races another in an attempt to cut the fastest dovetail joint. If Dave were to participate in a competition on the fasted way to draw a door rail, I think he would win hands down. His technique is super simple and fast - see it below.

Different Strokes for Different Folks
One of the interesting things about this video is that I can see yet another SketchUp pro in action. In Tim Killen's, Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers the process is laid out for making the rail for a cabinet door. I describe Tim's method for making the rail here.

In Dave Richard's video, he does this same thing in a totally different way. Take a look...

Dave starts by directing the viewer to form the basic shape of the rail. Then, we are asked to select the edges on the left side, indicated in blue.

Selecting the move tool and holding down the control key, we then move a copy of these edges to the right 1/4 inch. This process is repeated one more time. This forms the boundry for both the slot for the panel as well as the faces for the tenons.

Using the push/pull tool, Dave instructs the viewer how to complete the rail.

I am not saying that Dave's method is better than Tim's, rather it is interesting how two experts go about a similar task in different ways.

The rest of the cabinet joinery goes just as fast and includes slightly complex sliding dovetails for the shelves. Tips are frequently given with the goal of avoiding measuring as much as possible. To achieve this, Dave often uses adjacent components to determine appropriate sizes.

The cabinet is completed by adding a door knob and hinges for the cabinet door (models of these components are included with the video). Properly locating a knob can be a fussy endeavor, so I was glad I could follow along and see how Dave did this. The same is true for the hinge.

The Final Episode
While I have created a number of exploded images, I have not created any shop drawings. I also have very limited experience with layers and scenes. The last episode covers these features and processes in detail, and Dave goes over various ways to print images.

Good instruction for me - creating exploded views using layers and scenes.

Something to consider for my next eBook - shop drawings of a project which Dave covers in detail.

I have watched this episode twice already and finally decided I would open the included wall cabinet model and follow along as Dave creates some different layers and scenes. This is all good stuff and I can easily see myself coming back to this episode as I tackle future projects and their shop drawings.

Finally, Dave discusses how to create a cut list and a cutting diagram using a special plug-in. Nothing is left out of the process of turning your model into useful information for construction.

Extras
I have already mentioned that the video comes with a SketchUp model of the wall cabinet, along with the needed models for the knob and hinge. Tauton goes the extra mile and also includes a separate model of the wall cabinet with scenes along with a pdf file with a complete plan for making the cabinet.

And if all of this isn't enough, the download also includes a cheat sheet/quick guide as well as a thirteen page transcript of the video.

In the case of the cheat sheet, it is not as comprehensive as the Quick Reference Card that comes with SketchUp, but I have never really used that guide because I find it too complex. The more simple approach of Dave’s cheat sheet makes it more user friendly (and specific to woodworking).

Conclusion
There is a lot I could say about this video. Things like how it is perfect for the beginning 3D modeler – well laid out with logical progression from design all the way to shop plans. I could write about how Dave provides a wealth of knowledge in the form of tips and short cuts that makes modeling faster and more fun – things that take a lot of the complexity out of SketchUp. I could say how at $12.95 the video is a gigantic value, especially with all the extras it comes with.

But for me, the big thing is this: does it answer the question I posed at the outset of this blog post? Is it useful for someone who has advanced beyond the beginner level. That answer is a resounding yes.

If you choose to get this video, I think you will be well pleased with your purchase and you will be on your way to more enjoyment with SketchUp.

See Dave Richards' Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers - The Basics by clicking here.

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Have a question or comment? Leave yours by clicking on the "Comments - post yours here" link below. My email is jobranch@yahoo.com. Consider subscribing via email or RSS by clicking here.

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Crown molding: Construction completed

I should have a smile on my face because I am adding the last row of trim to my crown molding project.

The end is in sight! I started this project almost a year ago, then about half way through, I put it aside to begin work on the Tornado Bed. It seems like so long ago (and it was). I am excited to have this project almost completed. Over the last couple of weeks, I have been adding the last rows of molding - one row had to be made from scratch, and one which ended up being stock molding was something I could simply buy.

Two weeks ago, I began the process of milling the fourth row molding. The process is similar to what I wrote here. I cut the molding outdoors because the combination of my router and MDF means a lot of dust.

About to commence routing. The MDF boards are rough cut to size. I form a round over along each side.

Even though doing this outdoors is mostly a care free endeavour, there are some things to consider: are the neighbor’s windows closed; important because the first time I routed outdoors, the cloud of dust I blew away with my leaf blower headed straight for their home.

Another consideration: are there any pets or humans around – example: our black cat walks down the sidewalk while I get ready to make a pass with my router. I got a quick visual of what she would look like with a dusting of MDF and decide to wait until she passes by.

This is the last of my outdoor routing. As I form the profile, cars drive up and down the street. I wonder if all this looks a little funny: me with my big respirator stuck to my face along with safety glasses and my router creating all the dust which moves around with the wind.

With the router work completed, I begin adding the molding to my dining room. The only part of the process that is slightly complex is making the molding fit around the opening to our living room. See the illustration below...

The pilasters which stand at the left and right sides of the living room entrance require a little extra work. The small pieces of molding can be tricky to cut.

Just like with preceding layers of molding, I glue short, but over-size pieces of MDF to larger ones. This makes trimming easier, more accurate and most importantly, safer.

These pieces install pretty easily.

Finally, it is time to begin work on the last row of molding. I had originally planned to create this row out of MDF because I wanted a larger cove than what is available at my local home center. Ultimately, I decided against that and use stock pine cove molding.

I did this for several reasons: 1) Even though I made a mock up of the completed crown molding, the profile is starting to look a little thick. The stock cove molding is smaller and therefore better. 2) I was worried that thin MDF molding would easily snap in two while working with it. 3) Stock cove molding means I don't have to make it which saves me time.

So, with the stock molding purchased, I simply repeat the process all over again...

In this photo: cove molding needed to wrap around the pilasters. They are almost ready for installation. Some blue painters tape holds the small returns in place while glue dries on one section.

As shown in the photo at the top of this post, I use my pneumatic nailer and sink 1 5/8" brads into studs behind the sheetrock. I also use one inch brads to attach the molding to the MDF boards above.

Construction complete! Note the nail holes - there are a ton that need to be filled.

I had given myself until this weekend to complete construction and am glad to say I stayed on schedule for once.

What is next? I have a lot of nail holes to fill and some final sanding to complete. Then, I'll have to run a bead of caulk where the moldings meet the wall and ceiling. And finally, I'll have to prime and paint everything. So, while construction is complete, there is a still quite a bit to do. I am thinking this is at least a couple of weeks worth of work.

To view all the posts in this series, click here. This is post thirteen.

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SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers: An attempt at advanced modeling

This is part four in a series on Tim Killen’s Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers.

My first imported image for SketchUp: the cornice profile for my dining room crown molding project. This step is covered in chapter eleven.

With this post, I am coming closer to wrapping up my working review of Tim Killen's Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers. I had hoped to make this the final entry in this series, but covering six increasingly complex chapters in one blog post is just too much. So I'll save the final three chapters for later. Honestly, I did not realize this whole thing would be so involved.

As you would expect, the topics and subsequent models have become more advanced with each new chapter. And that is where we are right now - covering advanced modeling techniques; no more beginner stuff. In this post, I cover chapters eleven through thirteen which includes a lot of curves; something I have limited experience with.

I am a fan of square, linear things and models like a Maloof style rocker are about as curvaceous as I would care to get. Making it through these advanced levels of instruction can produce a headache, but all of it is good to know and these lessons certainly help expand my capabilities with SketchUp. There is a mountain of information to cover, so let’s dive right in…

Chapter Eleven: How to Use Photographs and Scanned Images
In my short time as a 3D modeler, I have had one occasion in which I imported a scanned image into SketchUp. The image is shown above and I did this in order to make an exact copy of a cornice profile I am using as crown molding in my dining room. I had problems doing this, so Tim’s step-by-step guide saved me time and trouble doing it a second time for this exercise.

When I first attempted this process a while ago, I had problems orienting the image correctly. It wanted to "lay on the ground" vs. standing up as I needed it to. In this chapter, Tim explains how to do this correctly. And as he points out, most images are not square to the page when scanned, being off at least slightly. That was the case with the image above. In the image (click it to enlarge), I am fixing this by using the rotate tool to make the image line up with a reference line I drew along the red axis. With the image properly oriented, I can then trace over the profile and proceed from there.

An important point in this chapter is using an imported furniture photo and with at least one known dimension, scale the photo to the correct size and begin drawing and uncovering some of the unknown dimensions.

Tim discusses a couple of different ways to accomplish this, something I'll have to try some day.

Chapter Twelve: Advanced Modeling Techniques
This chapter covers twenty-two pages and is the longest in the book. In chapter twelve, I need to create models of three different projects: a Shaker step stool, a Windsor chair, and a colonial cupboard. The goal is to cover a variety of projects in order to gain some real world practice with SketchUp. In the case of the Windsor chair, being able to develop this model is a real accomplishment.

Shaker step stool. This is pretty basic modeling - the step stool employs tips taught in earlier chapters, but requires careful use of layout lines to properly create the sides...

A nice model to reinforce some things already learned. If you look closely, you will note that the front edges of the sides are slightly angled towards the back.

Getting the angles correct requires careful use of layout lines.

Another interesting aspect of this model is developing the half dovetails on the stretchers.

I had to draw the sides three times before I had all the layout lines correct, but once that was done, the rest of the model went pretty quickly.

Windsor chair. This model tested my skills so much, I never finished it. A Windsor chair has so many complex angles to deal with and a variety of curvaceous shapes to replicate, that I quit before I completed the seat; and the seat is the beginning of the model. :(

After creating an image of the seat to be imported, I begin the process of tracing its shape.

After locating the holes for legs and spindles, I extrude the thickness. Already I have made two mistakes and I loose interest in this model.

Something as complex as this Windsor chair would really benefit from an accompanying video or two or three. I got lost with just the text and images as a guide. If you want experience making turned components like legs and spindles, this model is for you. For now, I am putting this exercise on the back burner with hopes of coming back to it in the future.

Colonial cupboard. Now this model is more my speed - it is full of straight lines. As with every exercise in Tim's book, the goal is to learn the process being taught, but as a model illustrator, I also want to make my models as accurate as possible. I had trouble with this mainly because the measured drawing isn't as user friendly as I would like.

Note the panel door which has a bead adjacent to the panel. Making this door is the main goal of chapter twelve.

An example is the placement of dovetails at the corners of the case. After drawing the pins in the sides, I drew the rabbet joint for the back only to find out the pin at the back interfered with rabbet. So I had to draw the sides a second time as well as the top and bottom, which in reality gave me more experience drawing dovetails but I would rather not have to do it twice.

With the top removed, you can better see the case dovetails.

After some trail and error, my model of the Colonial cupboard reached the point where I had to draw the panel door. Making the door is new ground and it is somewhat complex.

An exploded view of the door which shows the bevel on the panel. The bevel runs along panel's front edge and the back as well.

A close-up shows the haunched through tenons on the rails and the mitered bead.

This model tested me in a couple of ways: 1) The panel for the door is beveled on both sides which requires some careful layout to execute. 2) The bead which surrounds the inner edge of the rails and stiles has to be mitered which is challenging, but an important process to learn. Tim teaches a neat trick to make the mitered bead.

Missing from this model are the period hinges and the door knob. Tim covers hinges in Chapter Thirteen.

Chapter Thirteen: Advanced Detail Modeling Using the Intersect Command
Have some Tylneol at the ready when you try to wrap your mind around this chapter. The models are super complex - a wide variety of things including: a bonnet for a highboy complete with goose neck molding, a curved chair crest rail, the components and joinery for a glass door, the rear leg of a Maloof style rocker, a Windsor chair sculpted seat, and a small cabinet hinge, among other things.

In the example of the highboy, Tim gives the process to create the top, but does not go into full detail. To be fair, to do so would be at least a whole chapter unto itself, but I was left a little disappointed. I would have liked to gain the expertise on how to make SketchUp trace the graceful shape of the goose neck molding.

The same is true for the other models found in this chapter. I don't have the need to draw any of these examples right now, but I could see myself making a glass door for a cabinet. This will be a good chapter to save for future projects.

Take Aways from These Chapters
As Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers progresses through more complex models, the ebook could use the help from video instruction. In preparation to begin the Windsor chair model in chapter twelve, Tim gives the reader a drawing of the chair profile which is to be imported - so far so good. But then he directs the reader to "use the Line and Arc tools to trace over the shape" which is much harder than it sounds. The Windsor Chair seat has shallow curves as well as tight ones. I was left scratching my head a little; I never felt like I knew the best way to join these curves in a seamless manner. This is where a link to a video tutorial would be good.

Also in chapter thirteen, where the models are most challenging, we are left to mostly read how to develop models like the highboy. Here I would have liked a model to work on; pull apart and gain more insight into how to create the curved components. The same is true for the even more complex Windsor chair. The ebook comes with one model, how about a couple more.

So, while I think much more should have been done to make this a more complete teaching guide, I still gained insight into how these models go together. The models I did complete taught me new things and provided more practice doing things I learned in earlier chapters. I just wished the instruction was more comprehensive.

In the next post, I'll cover the final three chapters of this ebook which deal with adding photo textures to a model and then creating shop drawings and full size templates. You can get your copy of Tim Killen's ebook by clicking here. Also, speaking of video instruction, Fine Woodworking.com now has a SketchUp video available for purchase. Titled,"Fine Woodworking's Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers: The Basics" this DVD by Dave Richards is 60 minutes in length and is for both beginners as well as those seeking advanced training. Check it out here.

To view other posts in this series, click here, here and here.

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Crown molding: racing towards completion

Can you see some progress? I have completed another row of molding.

Putting this project on a fast track has been the goal of late. I announced to my wife that I was going to add shop time to my early morning schedule (prior to work) in an effort to really move this project forward. I have been able to do this many mornings recently. This is in addition to time dedicated in the evenings when I can.

You would have to be a very close follower of this project to notice the difference as shown in the photo above. All of the hard work since my last post does not translate into an equally noticeable visual impact, especially since this project is hard to photograph well.

I have been working on the third row of molding shown in yellow below...

The areas highlighted in green have been completed. The yellow section is my current task.

The first step was to mill some more molding, so I had to get the router out and create more - 48 feet more. This next part of the crown profile is one inch thick, so I begin by adding a layer of 1/4" MDF to a standard 3/4" thick board.

I then use a 1/4" cove bit to cut the profile. It takes several passes to reach the depth I need...

You can see evidence of the different passes of the router in the boards above. This new bit makes nice crisp cuts in the MDF.

Here is a little better view of the profile (the molding is resting on it's rear edge).

With the profile cut, installation begins. Even though this layer of molding is only about three inches wide, the full inch thickness gives it a little weight. I am using 18 gauge brads in my nailer and glue to attach the molding, but to get a tight fit, I have to use a series of vertical boards to wedge the molding in place...

There is a lot of test fitting on this wall, but it all goes well.

I cut one section too short, but the good thing about painted MDF is I can glue the cut-off back on and re-cut it to the correct length.

The final step: complete the wrap around the pilasters. I can now call the third row finished. The next two layers of molding should be easier.

Sweet.

Breathing easier
In my last post, I mentioned the problems created by breathing in some of the terrible dust from this project. Since then, I did a little more research and have implemented several measures to improve my nasal health and I have good news to report.

First, I added a section of hose to my dust collector in an attempt to capture more dust as it comes off my table saw blade.

Note my dust collector in the background and the new hose resting on my table saw.

I already had most of the parts needed for this. I decided to buy a router table fence dust port for the table surface. I glued and taped four rare earth magnets to the bottom of it which makes the dust port movable anywhere on my saw table.

This addition to my dust collection has been partially successful.

This new dust hook-up has helped, but to be more effective, I think something directly over the blade is needed like the combination blade guard/dust pickup accessory I have seen.

The ironic thing is that after a tip from woodworker Jason Herrick, I went to a website by Bill Pentz which is loaded with information about dust collection and what a poor job the typical dust collector does. You would think that purchasing a dust collector like mine would be reasonably effective at dust control, but I have concluded that I'll have to make several significant improvements before I can call it effective. A couple of quotes from Bill:

"Almost all small shop dust collectors and cyclones fail to provide good fine dust collection."

"typical small shop workers including hobbyists get more fine dust exposure in a few hours than a full time shop worker receives in months"

I know this to be true in my shop because you should see the dust cloud that erupts from the occasional cleaning with my electric leaf blower. I could go on and on about the things I learned from Bill with a quick scan of his site. But in summary, my dust collection captures virtually no fine dust and only eliminates the need for me to do some sweeping of my shop floor. I still have to get the broom out because my dust collector simply re-distributes fine dust all over my shop. There is a lot of important information at Bell Pentz's site, so be sure to check it out.

I recently mentioned nasal irrigation - I have been doing this very regularly and irrigation combined with a prescription nasal steroid has kept my nose clear enough to sleep well without the need for Afrin. Also, I have resumed the use of a chemical style respirator while in my workshop. So I am making good progress with all of this.

The purchase of a 1 micron canister filter for my dust collector is now a high priority - my next step towards improved air quality in my workshop. I also need to look into other upgrades.

Up next: more router work as I begin cutting the profile of the fourth layer of molding. I am planing on using stock pine quarter round for the final layer in order to speed the process.

To view all the posts in this series, click here. This is post twelve.

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Have a question or comment? Leave yours by clicking on the "Comments - post yours here" link below. My email is jobranch@yahoo.com. Consider subscribing via email or RSS by clicking here.

Some popular projects:

1. My entertainment center. 2. My workbench. 3. The oak end table.