Frames. Since my last post, I have been working on the face frame and the frame for the base (both shown in blue).
When I look at blogs like Daily Blog Tips or ProBlogger, they often comment how important good content is. With this in mind, I have been waiting to add a new blog post hoping to get to the bracket feet. But a lot has been going on over the past week and I thought a post was in order.
I am still laying the ground work for the elements of this project that make it look like something. When I get the bracket feet and the base molding attached to the case, the TV Console will really start to take shape. Before I can get to that point, I have to build and attach the face frame as well as the base frame.
The face frame comes first since it gives me the final outside dimension of the case. To this, I can then add the planned size of the base molding to give me the target dimension of the base frame.
Get it straight. This is the jig I made to help me cut straight edges on long boards. My jointer gets close, but it is not accurate on a board of this length. The two hold-downs came from the Craftsman tenoning jig left over from my first table saw.
Quick joinery. On face frames, I use my pocket screws and glue to join the needed rails and stiles.
I recently saw an internet discussion about joinery techniques like pocket screws, dominos and biscuits. The question was are these techniques OK for fine woodworking? Guess what my answer was? I use both pocket screws and biscuits with these frames. Here, I feel that pocket screws and glue are just fine for what I call non-structural joinery. I once saw pocket screws used to join bracket feet together which I think is very much inappropriate due to the weight placed on the base of a project.
Properly positioned. With the face frame joined and properly located, I use glue and clamps to lock it in place. For added measure, I use pocket screws along the top and bottom of the case.
This step is a little stressful because I take great care to fabricate the face frame a little over size so that I can position the lower rail flush with the bottom shelf. Everything goes well.
Moving on to the base frame, I cut the necessary parts, join the sides to the back and with the front dry fitted, I cut a slot for the dust panel.
Saw dust. I use a 1/2" slot cutting bit in my router to cut the dado for the dust panel. This creates a giant mess on my shop floor.
Doubled up biscuits. I use two biscuits and glue at each corner to create a strong joint. I used this same method on my entertainment center which is extremely heavy. This joinery continues to be problem free after years of use.
Base frame completed. Here, I have the 1/4" MDF dust panel positioned and the front glued in place.
Currently. Looking good - the warped sides and shelves are flat; the face frame joint is almost invisible where it meets the sides. I have a slight crack where the face frame meets the lower shelf - I'll need to decide how to fill it.
I love how mahogany sands - it is very agreeable with sandpaper. I also am very pleased with the color - love it.
Next, I will fabricate the actual feet. For this, I plan to resurrect my Dad's old Craftsman bench top drill press. Should be interesting.
To see all the posts on this project, click here. This is post ten in this series.
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